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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.